Here you'll find all the extra bits & bobs that are essential to complete the swag bag of any modern maker! We have a huge number of items that will help fill out your maker tool kit, satisfy your cabling requirements or even boost your connectivity and productivity.
Cases, cases, cases!! Here is our extensive range of fantastic cases and enclosures for your maker movement activities. Choose from the slick & sleek, bold & colourful or weird & wonderful. No hobby project is complete without the perfect case to complete the look and fit the application, and here you should have no problem at all in finding the enclosure that is right for you!
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Inside this part of the shop you can find all the bits and pieces you need for your prototyping needs. Here you can kit out your maker station with tools and consumables, as well as other components such as headers, sensors and accelerometers to bring all those epic ideas to life!
Here you can find the range of everyone's favourite single board computer! The revolutionary Raspberry Pi has brought more possibilities within the grasp of developers than ever before, and here you can get your hands on the board that will bring that next idea to life. The Raspberry Pi has come to us in many shapes and sizes, but whichever model you want or need, this platform is guaranteed to pack a punch!
Take a look at all the original products we have to offer here at Pi Supply! Whether you are looking for self-solder kits or fully assembled HATs, you can explore new horizons with Pi Supply, and do even more to unlock the potential of your Raspberry Pi. Check out our range for LED & IR toys, ePaper applications, power solutions and much more to expand your range of projects.
RasPiO Full pHAT lets you connect two pHATs to your Pi and still use spare GPIO ports, connect a pHAT + HAT to your Pi and still use spare GPIO ports, and break out the Pi GPIO ports multiple times with large, clear labels. Even with those two pHATs in use at the same time, you still have 19 other GPIO ports unused.
Connect two pHATs to your Pi and still use spare GPIO ports
Connect a pHAT + a HAT to your Pi and still use spare GPIO ports
Break out the Pi GPIO ports multiple times with large, clear labels
...so it opens up a lot of possibilities for combining boards into a project. But even with those two pHATs in use at the same time, you still have 19 other GPIO ports unused. With RasPiO FullpHAT, you can access and use them for your projects.
RasPiO Full pHAT PCB
Stacking header (body 8.5mm, pins 10.25mm)
2x20 male header
Nylon standoffs and nuts (2 of each)
When assembled it looks like this...
Large Clear Labels
As with all RasPiO boards, the connections are labelled in a large, easy-to-read font. There are also lots of options for adding extra headers or soldering wires to the board (to suit your project). The GPIO ports are broken out twice in addition to the two pHAT headers. There are extra holes for power and GND as well.
RasPiO FullpHAT is a HAT-sized board that enables you to connect 2 pHATs/HAT and break out available GPIO pins. Two pHATs is slightly (~4mm) wider than a HAT, so when you put two pHATs on, one of them will stick out a bit over the edge.
The stacking header is 2x20 with the body 8.5mm high and the pins 10.25mm high. Remembering that the PCB is 1.6mm thick, this will leave 8.65mm protruding above the board. This is about the same protrusion as a regular Raspberry Pi header.
The underside of the PCB is also labelled for your making convenience...
...it's much easier to solder wires to the right hole when it's labelled clearly!
Should you wish to make your project as 'low-profile' as possible you could solder the Full pHAT directly to the Pi and eliminate the main header altogether (works best with Pi Zero). But make sure you've done any soldering you need to on the underside of the PCB first.
It's not cricital, but it's probably best to solder the stacking header first, paying close attention to which way up the PCB is. Have a good look at the photos. The large "Connect TWO pHATs at once to your Pi" writing should be facing upwards.
Then solder the 2x20 male header (if you're using it) and then attach the nylon standoffs and nuts (if you're using them). It's as simple as that. Enjoy.